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“You can be cruised anywhere in Saudi Arabia, any time of the day,” said Radwan, a 42-year-old gay Saudi American who grew up in various Western cities and now lives in Jeddah.

Then I find out, it’s a whole society.” This society thrives just below the surface.

Like many gay and lesbian teenagers everywhere, he felt isolated.

“I used to have the feeling that I was the queerest in the country,” he recalled.

But as a more Westernized notion of gayness—a notion that stresses orientation over acts—takes hold in the country, will this delicate balance survive?